Foreigners in Korean History: Korea’s First Western Architect

As an architectural student in Korea, I’ve written quite a few articles on the history of buildings in Korea. But today, as an architect who came from Russia myself, I am here to tell you the story of Korea’s first western architect – Afanasy Seredin-Sabatin. Arriving in Korea during the 1880’s, Sabatin built the first western style buildings in Seoul. He then went on to introduce public parks to Korea, build the site of the first cafe in Korea, and witness the murder of Korea’s last queen.

Biography

Afanasy Ivanovich Seredin-Sabatin worked in Korea at a time when the country had just begun to open up to the world. It was an interesting time when traditions were evolving and industrialization began. New architecture was needed for a new way of life. Therefore, the value of his work lies not only lies in the architectural features of his work, but in the fact that he was Korea’s first western architect. He accomplished so much in an entirely new culture. All, back when the average person would have had very little knowledge of the outside world.

Life Before Korea

Afanasy Seredin-Sabatin was born in 1860. He was a nobleman in the city of Lubny, Ukraine. In 1874 he moved to Saint-Petersburg where he entered the Naval Cadet Corps. Later, he became a long-distance navigator on one of the ships of the “Russian Eastern Fleet”. There is also a legend that before the Naval Corps, Sabatin studied at the Academy of Architecture. However, he quarreled with the teacher and left without completing the course. That is why he did not have the official right to engage in construction in Russia. [1]

Settling in Korea

Sabatin arrived in Korea as a tidewaiter at maritime customs in Incheon on September 17, 1883. He had just come from Shanghai with his wife and 6 children. [4] As a family, they settled at Chemulp’o (제물포) (modern Incheon). It was only a small fishing village where lived around 30 Europeans lived at the time. [1] Right after he settled in, he began working, and thus became Korea’s first western architect.

The First Western Style Building in Seoul

In 1884 Diplomatic Relationships between Korea and Russia were established [3]. In 1885 K. I. Weber, arrived for a permanent job as counselor general of Korea [1]. He then charged Sabatin to design a plan of the Russian Legation in Seoul [4].

Upon his appointment, K.I. Weber was quoted as saying that “this young man built a beautiful two-story building for the King of Joseon inside the palace. Although he is not an architect, he is an industrious and decent man who learned the knowledge necessary for architecture through self-study.” [5] Completed in 1888, the Russian Legation in Seoul became Sabatin’s largest independent project. It was the first building of the European style in what is now Seoul. [5]

The First Public Park in Seoul

Also, Sabatin designed the first western-style public park in Korea which is now known as Freedom Park (자유공원). It is considered a landmark in Incheon. Prior to this, parks in Korea were only at palaces and around royal tombs. They were carefully guarded. As a result, public access to them was strictly forbidden. [1]

Witnessing the Assasination of Korea’s Last Queen

In the middle of 1894, Sabatin was invited by King Gojong to work in Gyeongbokgung Palace. [1] Later, on October 8, 1895, he became the only surviving witness to the murder of Empress Myeongseong. She was assasinated by Japanese forces. This marked the begining of the end of take-over of Korea by Japan.

His written testimony is still the main key source of information about this incident. [5] After that, Sabatin was forced to flee, hiding in China from 1895 to 1899 but later returned to Korea. [4]

After 1900, he returned to Incheon. It was then that his last projects came into existance: the hotel ‘Sontag’ and the Diplomatic Club of Chemulpo. However, with the beginning of the Russo-Japanese war in 1904, he fled again. He moved to Vladivostok, Russia. He is belived to have died in 1921, but his place of death is unknown.

The Path of an Architect

Now, we will zoom in Sobatin’s life’s work as Korea’s first western architect. For 20 years of life in Korea, Seredin-Sabatin developed at least 12 (16) projects and participated in the construction of structures significant to the history of the country. His work became a symbol of the arrival of new times in Korea. Six of them have survived until modern times and have great historical value but only two – Gwanmungak of Gyeongbokgung and the Russian Legation – are confirmed to have been designed by the Russian architect. Others are currently believed to have been designed by him, but due to the turbulent political enviornment at the time, no documented proof has been found. [2]

Russian Legation (Still Standing)

The first official project of Korea’s first western architect was built in 1888. However, it was later was destroyed during the Korean War (1950-1953). Only a three-story tower remains, registered as a “historic site No. 253” and under the protection of the city administration.

Dongnimmun Gate (Still Standing)

Dongnimmun, or Independence Arch, was built in the final years of the 19th century as the symbol of the nation’s commitment to independence and to build up national strength through self-reliance. [13] The construction of this Gate was first suggested by Dr. Seo Jaepil (also known as Philip Jaisohn, was a Korean-American political activist and physician who was a noted champion of the Korean independence movement) [8] in the wake of the 1894 political reforms and was readily agreed to by King Gojong. It is believed that Sabatin took part in the construction.

Gwanmungak (Destroyed)

Gwanmungak was a white-plastered two-story villa in the area of Gyeongbokgung Palace. [6]

Jungmyeongjeon Hall (Reconstructed)

Jungmyeongjeon Hall is located near the Jeongdong Theater and was used as the imperial library between 1897 and 1901. The Hall became the main office of Emperior Gojong after Deoksugung Palace caught on fire. Unfortunately, building has lost most of its original structure except for its exterior because of the fire in 1925. [9]

Guseongheon (Destroyed)

This building was located at Deoksugung Palace. Not much is known about Guseongheon, except that it was built around 1900. It survived the 1904 fire, and was used as the emperor’s reception of foreign guests. [11] However it was completely destroyed not long after.

Dondeokjeon (Destroyed)

Dondeokjeon was constructed in 1902 and was one of the representative western-style buildings behind Seokjojeon. It served a variety of functions: the banquet hall for imperial celebrations, the reception hall for emissaries, and lodging for state guests. In 1907, the building was even the enthronement site for Emperor Gojong’s successor and last Emperor of Korea, Sunjong. [10] The structure was torn down in the 1920s, when the Japanese were redeveloping the city and its roads to their liking. [11]

Jeonggwangheon Pavilion (Still Standing)

Jeonggwanheon was designed as a place for the emperor to savor coffee and entertain guests, placed at Deoksugung Palace.

The Sontag Hotel (Destroyed)

It was described as the former “private hotel of the Imperial Korean Household … [and] … the leading hotel in Korea [it being] the only first-class foreign style hotel inside the city walls.” Within the hotel, Korea’s very first coffee shop was also opened in 1902. It was run by Antoinette Sontag of Germany. To read more about her story, Click Here.

In 1917, Sontag Hotel (built in 1889) was sold to Ewha Girls School and used as a dormitory until it was demolished in 1923. [12]

Chemulpo Club

Chemulpo Club was built in 1901 to serve as a social gathering place for foreigners who were residing in Incheon. It was a two-story building with brick and tin roof.  Inside the club there were placed social rooms, library, billiards table and more.

After the Japanese annexation in 1910, this building was used as a space only for Japanese, with Koreans and other foreigners being banned from entering the building. After Liberation, it was used as a club for US soldiers. Now Chemulpo exists as a modern cultural heritage museum, and a cultural space for citizens of all backgorunds.[7]

Freedom Park in Incheon

The park was built several years after the opening of the port of Incheon and became the first public park in Korea.[1]

References

1. web.archive.org/web/20150909204916/http://kikonline.ru/?newspaper_post=сеульский-строитель
2. koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20201020000836
3. ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Середин-Сабатин,_Афанасий_Иванович
4. www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/culture/2021/02/145_298175.html
5. koreajoongangdaily.joins.com/2020/11/01/culture/koreanHeritage/russia-architecture-Afanasy-SeredinSabatin/20201101141500441.html
6. colonialkorea.com/2019/10/01/auguste-joseph-salabelle-gojongs-little-known-french-architect-1888-1891/
7. www.jemulpoclub.com/Rooms
8. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soh_Jaipil
9. english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/ATR/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=1034818
10. koreajoongangdaily.joins.com/2018/06/19/koreanHeritage/Restoration-of-Deoksu-Palace-begins-Buildings-are-set-to-be-restored-to-their-original-glory-by-2038/3049572.html
11. koreajoongangdaily.joins.com/2009/06/28/features/Western-structures-in-the-palace/2906696.html
12. koreatimes.co.kr/www/opinion/2023/02/715_333972.html
13. english.cha.go.kr/chaen/search/selectGeneralSearchDetail.do?mn=EN_02_02&sCcebKdcd=13&ccebAsno=00320000&sCcebCtcd=11