Korean Rice Wine: Makgeolli, Cheongju & Soju

Wine had always been my alcoholic beverage of choice. However, after going to an amazing makgeolli bar and discovering the wide range of flavors and textures the drink could have, I became a bit obsessed. It led me down a rabbit hole. Now I spend most nights trying new variations of rice wine, attending brewing classes, and crafting my own at home. So, here is what I have learned about the three stages of Korean rice wine – Makgeolliu, Cheongju, and Soju

Makgeolli

Makgeolli is known to be the oldest type of Korean alcohol. Evidence of brewing the drink has been found all the way back to the first century BC. Actually, for most of Korean history, Makgeolli was the drink of choice in Korea. It wasn’t really until the 1970s that soju became more popular.

This is mainly because it was extremely cheap, easy, and fast to make. It only takes about a week for makgeolli to ferment to a point where it is ready to consume. However, it doesn’t have a very long shelf life. If you’re making it at home, you should be drinking it within a month or so after it’s ready. If it’s pasteurized and sold in a bottle, you have a few months at most. This means that even if you drink the same brand, the bottle you drink today won’t be the same as the bottle you drink next month because you can never exactly replicate fermentation and harvest conditions.

Personally, makgeolli is my favorite type of rice wine because it is extremely varied. The flavor depends on the time it takes to ferment, the type of container it is stored in, granulation, and added ingredients. It can be fizzy like soda, creamy like a milkshake, sourer than a lemon, or very sweet. 

Homemade, traditional makgeolli is generally sourer and has a higher degree of carbonation. If it is thick, sweet, and creamy, chances are, you are drinking mass-produced makgeolli. Non-traditional fermentation agents can make makgeolli thicker, and artificial sweeteners are used to make the drink appeal more to the masses. Normally, makgeolli contains between 6-9% alcohol.

Recommended Makgeolli

Makgeolli is so varied, it is hard to recommend only a few. However, I will choose four with very different flavors from one another.

우곡생주 (Ugok Saegju)

This makgeolli is for people who have a bit of a sweet tooth. When I tried it, my first thought was, this is basically melted alcoholic ice cream. It is sweet, thick, and creamy. It is a fairly typical, quality makgeolli that has been bottled at the early stages of the fermentation process.

술취한 원송이 (Drunken Monkey)

Drunken Monkey is a bit of a show-stopper. There is a variation of short-grain rice that is native to the Himalayan mountains and has a brilliant bright red color. This makgeolli is made with that rice. It has a more earthy and rich flavor than the typical white rice that makgeolli is normally made with. 

연희멜론 (Yeonhui Melon)

Yeonhui Melon is a fruit makgeolli. However, this is unlike any other fruit makgeolli you can find. It is bottled and pasteurized very close to the point that becomes vinegar. It is hella sour – like biting into a lemon sour. With an acquired taste, it’s the kind of drink you’ll either love or hate.

Mark Holy

Mark Holy is an easy makgeolli to drink. It is a typical makgeolli at the traditional end (Yeonhui Melon is like way past the end) of the fermentation process. It is thin and slightly fizzy, while lacking that bitter alcohol taste. 

Cheongju

Cheongju is the next stage of rice wine I’ll be covering. This is actually the alcohol that rises to the top of the vessel while making Makgeolli. Back in the old days, Cheongju was more desirable, reserved for the upper classes and special occasions. The leftover Makgeolli at the bottom was more of a low-class alcohol that was consumed on a daily basis.

Chongju ferments for 16 to 25 days. However, this was traditionally a drink that could only be made in winter. Alcohol will evaporate from makgeolli and you can be left with just vinegar without proper refrigeration, which didn’t exist before modern times. With low temperatures, the evaporation process is slowed, allowing Cheongju to form.

Hence, traditionally, Cheongju could only be made in winter. It requires a temperature of 14 – 16 degrees celsius to make. 

Cheongju is a type of hard liquor that does have a strong alcohol taste, having 12-21% alcohol content. However, it can have deeper, sort or herbal flavors when compared to soju. It is not fizzy, or creamy. Instead it is a watery texture.

Recommended Cheongju

사시통음주 (Sasitong Eumju)

This is a really smooth, easy to drink cheongju. It is savory and a bit sour.

대통대잎술 Bamboo Cheongju

This is one of the most traditional forms of Cheongju, and they still sell it inside of bamboo! It used to be used as a type of traditional medicine and has a strong herbal taste.

요세로제 (Yose Rose)

I’m actually allergic to this one and have never tried it myself. However, it is one of the most popular modern variations of Cheongju. It is sweet and fruity, containing apples, strawberries and blueberries. 

Soju

Soju is the final stage in the evolution of Korean rice wine. Although it is known around the world as Korea’s signature alcohol today, it doesn’t stem from ancient times like the Makgeolli or Cheongju. Soju first popped up on the peninsula in the 1300s. 

Soju is made using a distillation process. It starts with a mixture similar to makgeolli. However, the mixture is heated to a high temperature. Then, the alcohol evaporates out of the mixture and becomes a vapor (gas). The vapor is separated and contained. When it cools, the alcohol vapor condenses into liquid soju. 

Most of you are probably familiar with soju. Personally, I am not a fan. However, there is a pretty big difference between the typical soju that comes in a green bottle at your local market and craft soju. The soju at the market is made using a highly industrialized process with the cheapest ingredients possible, as fast as possible. However, craft soju is normally heated slowly which makes it not have as much of a gasoline taste. It can be very smooth. Additionally, different types of wood can be used for the fires in the distillation process, which can add a hint of a smoky flavor. 

Soju can contain anywhere between 12.9 – 53% alcohol. I highly recommend avoiding the higher percentages. I’ve tried some in the 40% range before and it was smoother and easier to drink than the 13% ones at the convenience store. Very dangerous!

Soju Recommendations

명인 안동 Myeongin Andong

Myeongin Andong Soju is among the most popular premium soju. They have been making soju the same way for the past 700 years. Gift bottles are around 35,000 KRW. However, if you don’t care about what the bottle looks like, the cheaper variation is only around 7,500 KRW making it a great first try of premium soju.

화요 41 (Hwayo 42)

Hwayo 41 is, as the name indicates, 41% alcohol and is considered to be in the higher range of premium soju. It is around 90,000 KRW per bottle. It’s this expensive because it’s made using natural spring water and distilled in traditional pottery over a wood fire. It has a bit of an aromatic smoky taste and is very smooth.

해모수 (Hemosu Soju)

Haemosu is a brand of soju that has been made by the same family for 16 generations. They have many different variations that are made in slightly different ways. Most of the variations have to do with the types of wood they use for the distillation fire. Nevertheless, all of Hemosu’s soju is made using traditional methods. It is also on the higher end, being around 60,000 KRW per bottle and 40 percent alcohol or higher.

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